Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10
NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Re: Ham Jammers
« Last post by Whoz Your Daddy on October 11, 2018, 08:39:24 PM »
Ok, HamJammers....

I have a PA packed. It's enough for the Electronic drum kit and a couple microphones. I've got two boom stands & mics.
And of coarse the Drum kit.

Bring a small amp for your Keyboard setups guys!

ok, see you all soon!

NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Re: Ham Jammers
« Last post by n1bus on October 11, 2018, 12:44:06 PM »
I plan to be there and will bring an extra mike stand and 2 extra microphones. I should also have some extra cables.

All campers and tenters MUST prominently display a valid Camping Permit on their trailer door or entrance to their tent so it can be readily seen by our Staff member who accompanies the Fair Association Representative when he makes his count. 

The DFA Representative does not look to see if the camper/tenter has paid.  He is merely counting trailers and tents so as determine how much we owe which we pay without discussion or comment.  Our staff member is the one who needs to see the permit.  If he does not see one he will attempt to contact the persons who are camping to collect the appropriate fee.   If no one is there the fee is not collected but we pay regardless.

At NEAR-Fest XXII a couple of wiseguys at two club sites told our Staff member that their club passes included the camping fee.  These people out-and-out lied to him, trying to pull one over on the new guy.  It backfired; they got caught by me.  These clubs have had their club passes revoked and as a result the entire club pass early entry program is currently under review.

Over the years NEAR-Fest has paid more money to the Fair Association than we have collected from those who have chosen to camp or tent overnight.  This has amounted to a couple hundred dollars per event which means in the past ten years NEAR-Fest has lost THOUSANDS of dollars because some people didn’t bother to pay for their camping. 

This is going to end starting with NEAR-Fest XXIII.

Each camper/tenter will be responsible for buying the appropriate pass before 5PM each night and displaying it where we can easily see it on the trailer door or entrance way to the tent.  People sleeping in vehicles will be responsible for the $15.00 tenting fee if they plug in to the fairgrounds electrical system, even if it is to charge a phone or tablet.  In this case the permit must be displayed on the driver’s side of the windshield.  We will check all vehicles at random times overnight.

Here is what may happen if the appropriate permit is not prominently displayed:

1:  You risk the very real possibility of being awakened at inconvenient times and asked to pay up now.

2:  If #1 does not result in immediate payment your license plate numbers will be recorded.  You will receive an invoice for the appropriate amount plus a $10 service fee.  You must pay this invoice at the Office trailer before leaving.  Failure to do so will result in your vehicle and trailer being banned from the grounds until you have settled your account.  PS: We know who you are!

3:  Failure to pay is considered as “theft of service”.  Please don’t make us go there.

I am forthwith making all campers and tenters responsible for each other.  This means if you see someone camping or renting without the permit prominently displayed you will advise that individual they need to get one right away.

If the above measures do not work I will consider adding a $5.00 surcharge to each permit to cover the shortage.  So it will be in the best interests of all campers to make sure that everybody pays their fair share.

NEAR-Fest will no longer pay for those who do not.

Finally I have been very displeased on hearing reports of disrespect been shown by a small number of attendees to our Staff member and friend from the Fair Association.  This last time some of us heard the term “camping Nazis” used on several occasions.  I assure you there are no “Nazis” at Deerfield.  We find this term highly offensive and hope that we will not hear it ever again.

Note to Staff:  Maybe we need to check all campers as they are coming in for their Friday night permits.
NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Re: Ham Jammers
« Last post by DrOptigan on October 11, 2018, 06:08:52 AM »
Bummer, Ben. :(

I'll probably be coming to the jam as (un)usual with some oddball keyboard instruments in tow, though I don't really have anything in the way of PA gear (or experience running sound in general).  Hopefully, we'll be able to figure something out. See ya's there!
aka Dr. Optigan
Mister Mike’s Hot Cars / How to Store A Vehicle
« Last post by W1RC on October 09, 2018, 01:54:35 PM »
There are a number of times when people need to store a vehicle for an extended period of time. Maybe you have a convertible that you love to drive in the summer, but winter is on the way. Or perhaps you're going to leave town for a job or an extended vacation. Maybe you are in the military and are being deployed overseas.

Whatever the reason for your time away from the vehicle, you'll need to put it in storage. If you simply let your vehicle sit on the street or in a garage for an extended period of time, you may return to a dead battery or — worse yet — a damaged engine, ruined tires and a rat's nest under your hood.

Here are important steps to take before you store a vehicle. They will preserve the life of the engine and ensure that your car starts when you return to it.

Keep It Covered
A garage is the ideal place to store a vehicle. This will protect it from the elements and keep it at a temperature that's relatively stable. If you don't have a garage and you can find accommodation at a reasonable price, consider putting the car in a public storage facility.

If you have to leave the car outdoors, consider getting a weatherproof car cover. This will help keep the car clean and dry.

Clean It Up
It may seem counterintuitive to get the car washed when you're putting it away for months, but it is an easy step and one that shouldn't be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease or tar. For added protection, give the car a coat of wax.

Change the Oil
Skip this step if you're only storing the car for a week or two. Consider getting the oil changed if you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days. Ford recommends this in its owner's manuals, saying that used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine.

Top Off the Tank
This is another long-term car storage tip. Fill the tank with gas if you expect the car to be in storage for more than 30 days. This will prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and keep the seals from drying out. You should also purchase a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-bil, to prevent ethanol buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish and rust. The fuel stabilizer will prevent the gas from deteriorating for up to 12 months.

Keep It Charged
An unattended battery will eventually lose its charge. Get someone to start the car every two weeks and drive it for about 15 minutes, if possible. Driving the car periodically has several benefits. It will maintain the battery's charge, help the car "stretch its legs" and keep the engine and other components properly lubricated. It is also a good idea to run the air-conditioner to keep the parts in working order and the air quality fresh.

If you cannot arrange for someone to start the car, there are two other options. The low-tech solution is to disconnect the negative battery cable. You'll likely lose the stereo presets, time and other settings. If you want to keep those settings and ensure that your battery starts the moment you return, purchase a battery tender, also known as a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end and plugs into a wall outlet on the other. It delivers just enough electrical power to prevent the battery from discharging.

Don't Use the Parking Brake
It's usually a good idea to use the parking brake, but don't do it when you leave a car in storage. If the brake pads make contact with the rotors for too long, there is a chance that they might fuse. Instead, purchase a tire stopper, also called a chock, to prevent the car from moving.

Prevent Flat Spots
Make sure your tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure. If a vehicle is left stationary for too long, the tires could develop flat spots as the weight of the vehicle presses down on the tires' footprints. This process occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures and with vehicles equipped with performance tires or low-profile tires.

In some cases, simply having someone drive the car for a while will bring the tires up to their normal operating temperature and get rid of any flat spots. In more severe cases, a flat spot can become a permanent part of the tire and it will need to be replaced.

If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking the wheels off and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners. This step requires more work, but it can save you from needing a new set of tires. Your tires will be in much better shape when you return if they haven't had the weight of the vehicle resting on them for a month or more.

Keep Critters Out
A garage will keep your car dry and relatively warm. Unfortunately, those are also two things that make a garaged car attractive to rodents. There are plenty of places in your car for critters to hide, and plenty of things for them to chew on. Try to cover any gaps where a mouse could enter, such as the exhaust pipe or an air intake. Steel wool works well for this. Next, spread mothballs or cotton swabs dipped in peppermint oil along the perimeter of the vehicle. The smell is said to drive mice away.

If you want to take a more proactive approach, lay down a few mousetraps and some rat poison. Just make sure someone can check the garage periodically, in case there are some casualties. Otherwise, you'll have to deal with a smell much worse than mothballs when you take the car out of storage.

Maintain Insurance
You might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage. Although that might initially save money, there is a chance that the insurance company will raise your rates due to the gap in coverage, which could cost you more in the long run. This can vary based on where you live and who your provider is, so contact your insurance company to see what options are available to you.

Get Back in Action
Here's a checklist of what to do when you're ready to bring your vehicle out of storage:

Check under the hood for any evidence of rodents. Look for chewed belts, hoses, wires or nests. If you covered the muffler or air intake, remove that material before you start the car.
Check the windshield wipers to see if the rubber is cracked or brittle.
Check tire pressure and inflate the tires to the recommended specs.
Check the brakes. Rust may have accumulated on the rotors. In most cases, this should go away after you drive the vehicle for a short time.
Check fluids to make sure there have been no leaks and that they are at the recommended levels.
If the battery cable has been disconnected, make sure that you reconnect it and that the battery terminals are clean.
Wash your vehicle to remove any dirt that may have accumulated.
NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Re: Everybody’s Going to the Fester....
« Last post by W1RC on October 09, 2018, 01:04:05 PM »
Actually you are correct and didn’t know it.  I was on 40 meters mobile that day.
Mister Mike’s Hot Cars / Re: Programming Additional Miata Keys and Remotes Yourself
« Last post by W1RC on October 08, 2018, 10:22:58 PM »
If you really want to know all about the Immobilizer system here is the training manual

However as mentioned earlier the key programming procedure outlines in the manual was not tested on my 2001 SE so I cannot say with any accuracy whether it works or not.
Mister Mike’s Hot Cars / Re: Programming Additional Miata Keys and Remotes Yourself
« Last post by W1RC on October 08, 2018, 10:14:58 PM »
in the interest of accuracy I want to clarify what is actually happening here.

In reality, you are NOT programming a key. What you are doing is programming the car's computer to ACCEPT a new key.

Each key with a transponder chip inside of it has a unique digital code identifier. No two keys have the same transponder code. The codes are numerous digits long so there are MILLIONS of possibilities.

So, you have two keys that came with your Miata and the computer in the Miata "knows" the transponder codes inside those keys. The computer will only let THOSE two codes keep the car running.

When you get a third key, you have to "teach" the Miata's computer to "know" the digital transponder code inside that new key. Without programming the car's computer to learn the code, a cut key will start the car but it will quickly stall and refuse to run.

It's easier to refer to it as "programming the key" but you're really "programming the computer to accept the key".
NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Free vintage radio clinic
« Last post by K1QAR on October 08, 2018, 01:02:22 PM »
Got an old tube radio gathering dust?  Those old soldiers were made to play, not sit and decay. 

Near fest is a great one stop opportunity to bring it back to life (and maybe find it a new home).  After the free clinic troubleshoots the problems, get replacement tubes, caps, resistors etc right around the corner at people's prices.  "Working"
radios are easier to sell.

Specializing in R-390As, KWM2s and stepper tuned magnetic loop are featured.

And if it gets too wet (Michael) to browse outside, consider being a tech for an hour and helping let the magic smoke out. 
NEAR-Fest XXIV October 12 and 13 2018 / Re: Everybody’s Going to the Fester....
« Last post by ab1dd on October 06, 2018, 11:48:31 AM »
Look real close to the license plate number on that little green convertible.............
CQ 40?

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10