Author Topic: French Arm?e de l?Air Leather Flight Jacket ?Blouson PN? Info Page  (Read 2351 times)

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Offline W1RC

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BLOUSON PN VOL PILOTE DE CHASSE ARM?E DE L'AIR FRANCAISE

The French fighter pilot flight jacket, officially called ?Le Blouson PN" (Personnel Navigant or ?aircrew?) is a lambskin leather military flight jacket that was issued by the French Arm?e de l?Air from 1970 to 1995.

The official government contract production jackets were only issued to pilots of the Arm?e de l?Air (the French Air Force) and later to the Police de l?Air et des Fronti?res...(aviation police and border guards).  They were also known as ?French Jaguar jackets? because the Arm?e de l?Air flew Jaguars as did the RAF in the Seventies.  The Blouson PN was in use for nearly a quarter of a century until it was discontinued and replaced by a flight jacket made from a synthetic fabric called Kermel.

In the late 1990s many were sold off as surplus by the French government and marketed through surplus stores in used condition, many with names in them.  Some were destroyed. 

French military sizes (88, 92, 96, 100,  104, 108...) correspond to the chest size in centimeters and equals to twice the French civilian suit size.  You can easily figure out the size of these jackets by measuring the distance between the upper shoulder seams. The suffix (C,M,L,X) determines the length of sleeves and back (from Short to Extra Long)

As an example, the military size 100L equals to a French 50 (or US/UK 40) with 'long' arm length. This should fit a 40 to small 42 (a French 50 to small 52) depending on how tight you want to wear it.  To convert centimeters to inches divide the length by 2.54.

There are MANY copies and reproductions being passed off as genuine PN Jackets so BUYER BEWARE.  Regardless of their origin, almost all French Arm?e de l?Air PN pilot jackets, offered for sale on Ebay, are described as being VRAI, AUTHENTIQUE, VERITABLE (real, authentic, genuine). Nevertheless, as with many things on Ebay, you'll find the best, the worst and everything in between.

Some of these jackets were not supplied by the Arm?e de l?Air  as official equipment but were actually purchased on military bases that were made to order by the master tailor.  Admittedly these might totally conform to Arm?e de l?Air PN pilot jacket specifications but even then they are considered civilian copies whether they were used by PN or not. 

If they don't have the ?Ordre de Marche? (contract number, size and year of production) it is probably not authentic unless it is clear that the label is missing.

As if it was not already complicated enough, a number of official manufacturers, also produced civilian copies (identical finish and cut, but often in a heavier less supple leather. Even more embarrassing, inferior copies (often of poor quality and of cheap Korean leather) were sold on Arm?e de l?Air bases that resurface now and again on eBay offered by people who are totally convinced having one that is genuine based on that it was bought on a military base as proof.

So how do you tell?

Distinguishing characteristics of a genuine ?Blouson PN? jacket ("Blouson de la Dotation" or Jacket from the Air Force Endowment)

1.    Your jacket should have seven pockets (two exterior pocket, two inner 'orders' pockets, as well as one pocket in the lining with the orange ?emergency vest? that serves as safety vest but also in case of crash, in order to be able to be spotted quickly. It goes over the leather jacket. There is another pocket on the chest for the rank tab (?Fourreau de Grade?) and one pocket with pen holder on the left sleeve.  The sleeve on the pocket is now rectangular, but earlier models have oval pockets (the shape of the latter was deliberately designed because it allowed the wearer to store a compass). 

2. Elastic knit cuffs in the lower sleeves.

3. Waist adjustable with buttons or snaps, three positions

4. A label with the name of the French manufacturer, ((MJ As du Cuir - MIC - Cassi S?rl - Alto Cuir (Levroux) - Jacquin) also showing the  military size and contract number (Ordre de Marche).  These manufacturers who made the  authentic jackets, also marketed very similar cut and quality copies, but with other components/materials (leather thicker than authentic, other brands of zippers, etc.

5. Main zipper (fermeture ? glissi?re) is a heavy two way brass zipper marked ECLAIR (?lightning?).  The ECLAIR-Prestil company manufactured a specific model of zipper for the Army that was not available to the general public.  The "AILEE" (Wing) brand of zippers) was also used in the manufacture of the first generation jackets in the 1970s.  Definitely not YKK.  An important note about the zippers:  For the authentic jackets, the French Army supplied the manufacturer with all the components (zippers, etc) they needed.  No discussion of the zippers would be complete without providing the answer to an often asked question:  ?Why the double zipper?? 

Here is the answer:  When the pilot was seated in the cockpit he sat on a survival package containing the parachute.  Then, if he were forced to eject, he needed to manually attach himself to this survival equipment by a harness.  His jacket was normally zipped closed so he would have to to open the jacket?s zipper from the bottom in order to do this.

6. A one-piece back panel.  There is no horizontal seam in the back.

7. A red orange (NOT YELLOW) emergency vest stored in
a small pocket in the lining

8. A removable brown (and NOT BLACK) synthetic mouton
fur collar, fixed at first by button later by zipper.

9. A black (and NOT BLUE) removable lining fixed by zipper
and velcro (but not on first generation jackets; those with the
circular pocket on the left sleeve). Recent models (and/or imitation jackets) have a removable lining attached by a black zipper made by YKK.

10.?Zig Zag? stitching on collar.

11. 4 ventilation holes in both armpits.

Please keep in mind that the copies/reproductions most often fail on criteria 4,5, 6 and 7.

Arm?e de l?Air fighter pilots were very disappointed and unhappy when the blouson PN was discontinued in the mid-Nineties and replaced by the Kermel fabric jacket.  To this day the student pilots who come out of the Cazaux Development school can buy one from the Master tailor. Since the Belgian student pilot also pass through this school they can wear this type of jacket as well, but it is not official issue.  That said, almost all the student pilots buy one, even if its cost is quite high (about ?400 euros) and for a pilot student, it is a great deal of money.

Notwithstanding, even today this jacket is still much sought-after and treasured by pilots, aviation enthusiasts, collectors and those who appreciate fine military leather jackets.  So, other than taking your chances on eBay to have a genuine Blousin PN the only solution is to visit the master tailor of the Base A?rienne 120 at Cazaux.

Bonne chance!

Copyright 2019 Michael Crestohl
All rights reserved.

Offline W1RC

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Re: French Arm?e de l?Air Leather Flight Jacket ?Blouson PN? Info Page
« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2021, 07:24:12 AM »
This article is a translation of an informative narrative that I lifted from a French seller?s eBay FOR SALE listing.  He was trying to get ?750 for his jacket.

?For informed collectors in search of the authentic - exceptional pilot jacket of the French air force - jacket from the first generation 70s (coming just after the very first model which had a red-orange lining as described below) - (to my knowledge it does not) no NEW jacket from this period exists)

The very first absolute jackets had a red-orange lining (years 1955/1965) without inside pocket (and without orange survival vest - It was planned to put on the jacket inside out after ejection (absurd, but true) and it was only later that this system was replaced by a red-orange survival chasuble (vest)

The first were made by the manufacturer LEMERCIER in a leather color tending towards Petrol Blue, then those which followed by M.I.C de Cognac in a less deep blue.

French Air Force / Naval Aviation fighter pilot jackets that are authentic (having been issued to the pilots) and used for this purpose on numerous flights (missions) will have the following characteristics:

- The color of the leather is gray/blue  ?Petrol Blue? color.

less heavy than the "substitutes" of jackets wrongly displayed "pilot jacket of the French air force")

- The jacket consists of 7 pockets (namely: 2 pockets respectively on each side + 2 slanted pockets inside + 1 small inside pocket with black zipper + 1 pocket on the left sleeve + 1 rank pocket on the left plastron -

- The size can be adjusted respectively on each side at the bottom of the jacket

- The central zipper (brass tabs) brand "ECLAIR".  Earlier jacket zippers are made by Ail?e.

- The back is in one piece (without ANY seam - neither horizontal nor vertical)

- The lining is black

- Elastic sleeves (to protect against squalls) inside the sleeves at the wrists. (Knit cuffs).

- 4 ventilation perforations on both armpits

Brief history of the PN / pilot leather jacket "saga".
In the 1980s you could buy a lot of copies of jackets in the homes of BANs and/or Air Force bases.
For authentic jackets, the French army provided all the components (zippers etc. ..) to the respective manufacturers (the most important manufacturer being MIC) --- The ECLAIR-Prestil company manufactured a specific model of zipper for the army (not available to the general public)

The manufacturers (MJ As du Cuir - MIC - Cassi S?rl - Alto Cuir (Levroux) - Jacquin who assembled (made) the authentic jackets for the French military also marketed copies of cut and very similar quality, but with components / materials of the trade (leather thicker than the authentic one etc ...)

The brands "BISON FUTE" - "JETKADO-FLY" - "DOURSOUX" - "K6" are NOT manufacturers-suppliers of the French Air Force.  These are manufacturers of copies.

HISTORY OF THE ZIPPERS USED ON THE AUTHENTIC PILOT JACKETS OF THE FRENCH AIR FORCE:

The mark "AILEE" (for the zippers) is also used in the manufacture of the jackets of the first generation of the 70s!

THE BRANDS "ECLAIR" AND "FERMETURE AILEE? WERE USED BY THE FRENCH ARMY - THE "FERMETURE AILEE" WAS CREATED BY GUY LACAM IN 1946 IN IVRY-SUR-SEINE THEN DECENTRALIZED IN AIRAINES (SOMME)

STE BONDUEL INDUSTRIES, IS NOW OWNER OF THE COMPANY "ECLAIR-PRESTIL" & "FERMETURE AILEE" AND IS FIGHTING AGAINST THE JAPANESE GIANT "YKK". 

YKK NEVER PROVIDED ZIPPERS TO THE FRENCH ARMY FOR PN LEATHER JACKETS

BE CAREFUL OF THE JACKETS SOLD ON EBAY USING THE TERM ?AUTHENTIC PILOT JACKET TYPE PN MOD.1964? with numbers on the label canister ... made and sewn on the lining to deceive the buyer, because they are copies (nothing to do with a supposed model from ..... 1964?

Offline W1RC

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Re: French Arm?e de l?Air Leather Flight Jacket ?Blouson PN? Info Page
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2021, 07:52:33 AM »
Found this listing on ePay the other day.  It had only been up for a couple minutes.  Here is what the seller claimed as ?V?ritable Blouson cuir pilote Arm?e de l'Air? it was priced at 45? ($USD 47.52) and 45? (USD $53.46) for postage.   At this price there wasn?t much time to think so I went for it.  Even if it is a copy it is easily worth double that so I am not worried about getting ripped off,

So now it?s on its way and hopefully will be here soon.

The listing had four photos and none of them were high res.  Let?s look at them and see what we can learn.

The jacket is first generation.  You can tell by the curved sleeve pocket.  Inner liner is black.  Back is one piece.  Cannot see the zipper clearly enough to determine who made it.  Regardless, the pull is missing.  The photo of the inside shows a white square label but I cannot read it.  The shape is right though.

There are a number of other of these style jackets on ePay right now but it is easy to tell that none are ?authentic?.  These photos of this one do not reveal anything to indicate that it is NOT the real deal so maybe I will get lucky.  We?ll see in a few days.  And of course, will it fit me?

September 10th update:  the jacket arrived and I judged it to be an authentic early issue piece.  The zipper on the sleeve pocket was made by Ail?e which is the company that made them initially and it is logical to assume the main zip was too.  However the leather was neglected over the years and is in pretty poor shape.    The fit is wearable but tight.  However I am happy with it.

October 15th update:  The jacket I bought last week from a seller in the UK arrived today.  See the next article.  This one will be on eBay in a couple days......

Offline W1RC

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Re: French Arm?e de l?Air Leather Flight Jacket ?Blouson PN? Info Page
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2021, 04:49:39 AM »
Found this one on ePay offered by a seller, Vintageleatherjackets, in the UK. This vendor lists several of these jackets, mostly copies.  In fairness to the seller he never states that they are genuine  issue jackets.  However this one caught my eye because it is different.  After closely examinimg the photos it is, in my opinion, an authentic French Arm?e de l?Air issue blouson PN.  I emailed the seller who made me an offer which I accepted on October 6th for ?82.62 (USD $114.24) including postage.  It was delivered on October 14th just in time for me to take it up to Deerfield.

The zippers were made by Eclair, it has the one piece back along with all the other distinguishing features as listed earlier.  The label, although ragged and worn, shows it was made by M.I.C. under contract number 60 in 1979 and is a size 100M.  What wasn't mentioned in the listing, probably because the seller didn?t see it, is the emergency red-orange survival vest tucked away in its? secret pouch.  The fakes don?t have this.

Best of all......it fits me perfectly!  The leather and lining are in great shape.  I am giving it a thorough cleaning and applying restorative materials to the leather.  It will look like new when I am done.

Finally after a long and fruitless search I found a good one that fits..... and at a very reasonable cost.